Hi, I’m currently using my Eufy battery door bell on battery only since my previous transformer was only supplying 8V.
I bought a new transformer that gives 18V but when I connect the existing wires to my new transformer my existing Honeywell chime starts to ring continuously and the Eufy does not seem to charge although I’m not sure if the power status is actually visible in the app when I check the Power Manager.
What confuses me is the setup instructions in the wired version that describes that the wires of the existing chime has to be connected via a jumper. Is that something that has to be done for the wireless version as well?
You want it to ring via your digital chime or Homebase ?
I’m in the UK and didn’t need the jumpers ( are not supplied with UK version) Just connected the old doorbell wires. Didn’t select mechanical chime or digital chime, just skipped this. Just have it via the Homebase. Did select mechanical chime at one point but was buzzing a little so decided not to.
I’m sure someone else mention this before. Have a lot through the forum.
I’m located in the Netherlands btw. I don’t have the jumpers in my package as well, but that could be caused by the fact that I have the battery powered Eufy bell and the battery powered quick start guide does not mention this setup step at all.
I am located at the Netherlands too with a standaard 8 V Transformer.
I changed nothing on the wiring. Just installed the Eufy and everthing ‘works like a chime’. Including the original chime
Suggest you try that first, before alternative wiring OR components.
In the powermanager and in the main screen of the app, there is an green symbol to indicate whether the doorbell is on battery only, or on the wiring as well. Switching the transformer on and off, makes the symbol change immediately.
The chime keeps ringing constantly, without anyone even pressing the door bell
The door bell does not receive power.
That is why I thought that the transformer or the way things are wired, might be the culprit.
Thanks for the info about the power symbol, that confirms that the bell indeed does not receive power with both the original 8V transformer and the new 18V transformer.
Okay, nailed it. Removed my new 18V transformer, replaced with the original 8V transformer, the chime kept ringing. Removed the plastic mount of Eufy doorbell and that stopped the ringing. Appearantly there was some short circuit inside the bell cable that caused the issue.
So now my Eufy battery doorbell is finally charging with the original 8V transformer. I even got my original chime AND the home base working at the same time.
I noticed that, although the Eufy door bell receives power, it does not charge yet. The doorbell was at 95% yesterday, today it is 94%. I read that this could be by design… hope that is true
Can you please give me the current overview of how you wired the cables? I’m also in the Netherlands and would like to use both my original chime and the homebase (I have the battery version of the doorbell)
Fascinating topic.
I’m in the US, so “standard” wiring might be different, but I can’t imagine it would be very different because the laws of electricity are the same
My lack of knowledge is how the Eufy doorbell signals the traditional analog bell to ring. The Eufy ringer works by receiving instructions over WiFi, obviously, but since both the doorbell and analog bell (probably) are just part of a simple loop of electricity, I would imagine an existing analog bell would ring any time the circuit is completed/connected (for example, whenever the Eufy doorbell is charging, keeping the motion tracker and cameras active, or essentially using power at all). The instructions for my wired Eufy 2K doorbell were to simply bypass the existing doorbell altogether by bridging the circuit.
Your existing analog doorbell must be a more complicated design where it waits for a command signal then runs through a routine, like playing a short melody or something (like my dad’s), instead of a simple Ding (when you press the button) Dong (when you release the button, like the doorbell at my mom’s house).
Good news about the battery only charging to 90%. That will help the battery last more years! Charging a battery fully puts more stress on it, like the strain on a zipper when you overpack a suitcase. That’s why the first 80% or so of a battery charges so much faster than each successive percentage after that. Lithium batteries mostly don’t have memory effects or as much voltage sag as an acid battery (like a car battery), and it is harder to “hurt” them, but ideally you wouldn’t want to let them be completely full or empty of power, just cycling around the middle.
How I understand it, for the 2K battery doorbell: When pressed, the Eufy 2K doorbell will connect the two power terminals for a short period (1-2 seconds) and if wired in this will cause a “ding” in the mechanical chime when connected and a “dong” when disconnected. Shorting out the two terminals with a jumper (why would you do that?) will leave the mechanical door chime permanently live (stuck in the “ding” state) and will not allow the doorbell battery to get charged. If you have a transformer power supply but no mechanical door chime then you MUST make sure that the “Existing doorbell chime” option is OFF, otherwise you will be shorting out the transformer whenever the doorbell is pressed.
The battery in the doorbell can’t charge from a wired transformer unless a small current is passing through it whilst charging, but this current is not enough to trigger a mechanical chime - but it might trigger a much more sensitive electronic chime, which is presumably why Eufy tell you not to connect one of these.
Finally, a warning about plug-in transformers. The Eufy 2K doorbell (and some others) are designed to work with old-fashioned mechanical systems which use wired-in transformers; these provide Alternating Current, anything from 8V to 14V in the UK and 24V in the USA. Using a plug-in transformer instead is OK as long as its output is AC and not DC. Many of these transformers provide DC and useless for Eufy. RING do a 24V AC version in their own UK shop but the RING one that Amazon sell is 24V DC, as are the majority of the Chinese imports. I’ve just ordered a RING AC version for my second doorbell - the main one works fine from the existing Friedland wiring, keeping the battery between 80% and 90% charged…
I’ve seen a few threads where someone recommends using any old laptop charger. BE WARNED, this is bad advice, as all laptop chargers output DC.
